Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.